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I have compiled a checklist of important considerations before you go to have a look at the car and once you are there in order to help you decide on your future transport. Most sellers are genuine but unfortunately you may be unlucky enough to deal with one who isn't or is naive so this is designed to help you. The checklist is by no means a full list or extant for every car but should be used as a guideline. I believe it to be a good benchmark to buying your car, especially if it's from a private seller. If it's possible a reliable mechanic should accompany you.Preparation:Before your visit check that the car is worth the price by using a comparison website or magazineCheck the year of registration, size of engine, etc to similar makes.Take a mechanic with you if possible.Initial Questions: Why are they selling the car?What is the car used for? (Pleasure or business) Pleasure normally means less miles and better driven.Has the car had a new gearbox and clutch?Paperwork:Has the car got a tax disc?Does the registration number on the tax disc match the car?Is there a long tax? (as close to a year is preferable)Check the Log Book (Vehicle Registration Document) Does the information match the car and the address where you are? (If the person selling the car is not the owner they may not know anything about the car.)How many owners has the car had? (If there are a lot compared to the age it may mean the car is unreliable)Has the car got an MOT? (a long MOT is preferable)Is the Certificate available?Has the car been regularly serviced?Is the service history book available?When was the car last serviced? (a service around every 12 to 20,000 miles is normal)Inspection of the Car (Outside):(Further to the first impression of evidence of accidents) * Are there any differences in the paintwork between the doors and sills? * Are there any gaps in the doors and bonnet / boot?Do the tyres look worn?Are any of the tyres worn unevenly (If the front tyres are uneven it could mean the suspension or tracking needs checking)Are any of the tyres worn unevenly (if the back wheels are uneven it could be a problem with the suspension)Is anything looking loose or about to fall offIs there any oil on the floor under the engine?Inspection of the Car (Inside):How many miles has the car run up? Base this on between 12 to 15,000 miles per year. (if there are more than this then problems may occur sooner than expected.) Diesel cars are usually better at handling more miles.If the car has done more than 70,000 miles then ask if the cam belt has been changed (See the receipt)Does the car start up straight away? (Trouble starting up may prove problematic in the winter especially)Does the engine management light stay on once the engine is started (It should go out. If it doesn't there may well be a problem in the engine.) The owner may say that it always stays on! (This is not acceptable)Does the engine sound loud? (is the exhaust blowing?)When started, did the exhaust blow out blue smoke or steam? (Let the engine tick over for 2 minutes then rev the engine loudly and check the exhaust for blue moke and steam again.) Any evidence of these may mean problems with the engine.Test all items: Test all heaters, windows, windscreen wipers and washers, horn, lights, seatbelts and seatsDo the pedals look worn? Are they as worn as the mileage and age of car suggests?What is the condition of the car like? Does it look well looked after? Do the owners use the car for transporting dogs etc?Under The Bonnet:(If the car is a private sale) Does the engine look steam cleaned? (An engine should have natural "dirt") This may suggest the owner is hiding something like oil leaks etc. Does anything look rusty? (Check around the terminals on the battery)Is there any spilt oil around the engine?Does anything smell of burning?In the coolant expansion tank, is there any oil floating on the water in the tank? (this would normally suggest an engine problem)Test Drive:A 20 minute drive is a good idea. Try to drive up hills and on fast and slow roads. Do not be afraid to give the car a good work out. Are there any rattles?Do the brakes work properly? Do they pull to one side? Do they squeak?Does the car pull well up hills?Does the handbrake hold well on a hill (and not near the end of its working travel)Does the car handle corners well and not feel as though it is losing grip on corners?Does the controls smooth and no knocks?Do the pedals respond well to pressure?Under The Boot:Check the spare tyre for conditionDoes the car have a jack?Considerations:If something doesn't work or the owner doesn't know anything about the problem, then don't buy it until it is fixed!If something is on the car then it should work.If this is the car you like then suggest to the owner that you would like to take it to a garage to have it checked out by a professional. (£40 or so here is better than losing out a lot more financially!!!)Making The Decision: Is this the car you want?Do not accept the first price. Prepare to barter!!!! Example: If the price is £1100 then they will probably accept £900 to £1000....and finallyThis is your life and this is a major decision. Be sure it is the right one and do not be afraid to walk away if you are not satified. There is always another car for you! CALL NOW 01453 750651 To see all content, you will need the current version of Adobe Flash Player to view it. |